Monday, 13 November 2023

Seychelles Day 6: Salazie trail

Today I went to the Botanical Gardens. While the place is well kept and the staff were super friendly and helpful, my expectations were not met for what I think a Botanical Gardens should present to a visitor. My approach would be like a zoo for plants... Monkeys together, antelope together, cats together...

Still, I enjoyed the walk around. My favourite sighting was the flower of a cannonball tree. It isn't indigenous but was really amazing to see.


An environmental time capsule sealed in 1994 and to be opened 3 June 2044. It was sealed by the then Foreign Affairs Minister (also seems to be minister for Planning and Environment). This was Daniele de St Jorre. My grandmother was a de St Jorre and Danielle was her first cousin (parents were siblings).

Then I hit the Salazie trail - another out-and-back. If I can fault any trails here, it is for the lack of loops and abundance of out-and-back. 
This one is the most user and runner friendly of all the trails so far. Mostly jeep track. An abandoned tea plantation (steep slopes that must have been terraced) and now there is a reforestry pilot project going on. 

Some ups, some downs, some flats and mostly shaded and pretty.

Some streams for fresh drinking water. 
The last 500m towards Fairview is single track and mostly steep down, which means when you turn to come back it is steep uphill. 


I'm really enjoying the climbs and probably went up faster than I went down. This trail really is a win. Sure, it doesn't have the spectacular views of the others, but it is very soothing and lush and green and peaceful.

I parked up the road at a historic site - graves from the late 1880s of liberated African slave children and those of British Superintendents from the mission school (children died young from diphtheria, dysentery and appendicitis) - a well-tended, peaceful spot.


Tomorrow is my last day on Mahe (off to La Digue on Wednesday afternoon) and I'm thinking to hit Trois Frere and Mt Morne. The trails are steep up and down (no surprise) with the trailheads near each other.

Sunday, 12 November 2023

Seychelles Day 5: Dans Gallas trail

Today, the Dans Gallas trail. 

It took me a while to get moving today. Yesterday afternoon, when I got back from Fred's paddle, I showered and lay down for a rest (around 5pm). I woke up at 4.30am trying to recall what had happened as I couldn't   remember going to bed - like at night (because I didn't). My uncle, bless his heart, had decided to let me sleep. I must have logged a good 11hrs. 

Like the Copolia Trail, the Dans Gallas trail is easily accessible, well used and offers great views of the city, harbour and nearby islands. 

The trail itself is 3.9km on an out-and-back route.  Like most routes, it is a steep climb up and is graded as 'hard'. I've been saying many blessings for the steep trails at home and also for all of the squats and box jumps at my CrossFit class. I'm working these climbs.

I headed out from my uncle's house, determined to find the trail I couldn't locate on Thursday but that I knew should be around. I found it and took it up up up. I ended up at the bottom of someone's garden and had to climb a low wall to get to the Le Niol/ Mare aux Cochons road that I used on Thurs. 

Indigo seed-containing berries of the Cerulean flax-lily.

View of Beau Vallon on the way up.

My new AR Gaiters and a new, yet-to-be-announced model that I'm putting through its paces on these trails.

The city of Victoria.

I think the peak on this Dans Gallas trail is the dome one in the centre of this photo.

On the return, I tried to find a trail to hook on to the one I came up from my uncle's house but didn't succeed. There will be one but goodness knows where it is. I got close to the river on a little used trail, but then it got very overgrown with no way through in sight. So I took the road - quick and easy. 

A few fungi findings plus I saw a snake. I was too slow and it was too fast for me to take a photo but I'll look up online to see if I can find one that matches what I saw.

A swim to cool off when I got home was a win and a lovely family dinner to finish off the day.

Saturday, 11 November 2023

Seychelles Day 4: Team No Limit paddle around Mahe island

My cousin Frederick Ladouceur De Speville has completed the first circumnavigation of Mahe island in the Seychelles (the main island) by kayak. He set off at midnight on Friday night from Marine Charter in Victoria, heading south along the east coast. Conditions were ok but with a small swell and some wind, the water wasn't smooth. 


By 4am he had rounded the south and decided to swap his South African Carbonology Sport Boost surfski for a shorter sit-in touring kayak for this southern part. A problem with his spraydeck had him back on the Boost. During the night, he followed a lit boat outfront. By 5am, with the sun brightening, he could safely follow the land. From the south and along the west coast, he paddled against the current, but still made good time.

We must have stopped around 10am at Cap Ternay, a beach near the northwestern corner of the island. There he was met by a crew from SBC, Seychelles TV channel. He had planned this stop to meet the crew and rest ahead of the final stretch across the north. 

Fred was ahead of schedule at Cap Ternay and with events planned at the finish, he couldn't arrive too early. 

Fred's friends and supporters were out as he paddled a hypotenuse across Beau Vallon Bay. Shouts and cheers from the crowd on the large Mason's Travel catamaran (and party music) together with shouts of encouragement from friends on boats and jetskis gave him a boost.
 While that section was hard work, the most difficult was certainly the last stretch from the north east corner to the finish. Wind, swell, sun and heat. His supporters keep up their encouragement but it was undoubtedly a hard paddle on a food and water deficit - being so close to the end.
Fred's welcome at the finish was superb. The country's Vice President saw him off at midnight and was there to celebrate Fred's accomplishment together with friends, family and supporters from all over.

Fred's paddle challenge was created as a fundraiser for the new hospital on La Digue island where Fred lives and where he has a guest house. It has also been about awareness for paddling, which surprisingly is not a well attended sport here. Fred began paddling as a youngster and it played a special part in his life.

Now that the first circumnavigation by kayak is done, this challenge is out there to be bettered by other paddlers. I'm not sure of total duration or distance yet (I'll update this post when I do) but I'd figure it to be less than the 80 nautical mile estimate (150km) with 12hrs paddling time. 

As for me, I joined Fred's wife Verena on a boat that followed from the start. I have a poor sea constitution so I popped a Valoid ahead of the boat ride. I fared pretty well until we were stationary and bobbing in the south at about 4am, in the dark and with no lights on the island for me to fix on. This was while Fred was trying to change kayaks. 

From the depths of my being the seasickness hit - over and over. It really is just the most ghastly affliction that had me heaving over the side of the boat. I had another few hits and then, to my appreciative surprise, I actually recovered and lost most of the queasy feeling. Still, I didn't dare move and I could not type or take photos for a few hours but I did lose my near-death parlour and regain some colour. The stop at Cap Ternay was a blessing. I passed out for a nap on the beach in the shade. Some food and water went down and stayed down.

The final stretch treated me well and I could again take some video and photos and even chat to the TV crew who were then on board with us.

That I had even considered going on a boat on the sea for 14-odd hours... Cousin, that is family love for you 🤢

I am super super proud of what Fred accomplished - for the sport of paddling, his fundraising for the new hospital and for his community. Very, very well done 

I'll be visiting him next week on La Digue and he can be totally excused if he doesn't want to go paddling with me.

Friday, 10 November 2023

Seychelles Day 3: Copolia Trail

After yesterday, a 'tame' trail. The Copolia Trail. Essentially 2km total on an out-and-back route. Popular with visitors for its accessibility, short distance and great view. 

The trail is clear and well maintained. This not an easy trail as it goes mostly straight up. I'm sure many who start it don't make it all the way up (I saw two of these out of the few fellow walkers that I encountered - I doubt they made it). 
The forest is beautiful, the tall trees tower, the boulders are moss covered and the view from the top is what it is all about. 

I loved being on top of an expanse of granite rock. I was stoked to see a pitcher plant. There are various places where they grow, favouring altitude.

I followed this outing with a scoop of ice-cream at a spot in Beau Vallon.

Tomorrow is my cousin's paddle challenge Team No Limit - to paddle around the island of Mahe (the main island).