Friday, 14 June 2013

Big walking in da city

Have I been walking! Working it out, it looks like I did around 17km yesterday and I clocked around 13-14 kilometres today - so far. Will head out this evening for another walk-about. Phew!

Today I walked North of the city. Amazing the difference two kilometres out of the centre (Centro), where I'm staying. Fancier apartments, no McDonalds. More of a residential than a business area. More calm. More dogs. More parks. In fact, Recoleta and the northern part of San Telmo is quite pretty and had many parks.

I have quite a fascination with the dog walkers. Probably because I'd like to be a dog walker. Not in a city like this though. I'm quite surprised at how well behaved and docile these dogs are. They all walk nicely together. There was this one park where a few dog walkers had collected and some dogs were tied to the fence while others were free and in a fenced enclosure. Personally, if I was a dog owner and I hired a dog walker I'd follow them to see where they go and what they do. I wouldn't want my dog walker to tie the leads to a fence and leave the dogs just sitting there...

It is quite chilly today - a number of dogs had jerseys on.


In another park I saw the best thing. A guy with a dog and four CATS. What puzzles me is that these are pet cats in really good condition (not strays) and they were just sitting nicely on the lawn next to him and walking around right near him. Are they his cats or is he a cat walker? How'd he get the cats to the park? Did he walk them on leads? How far did they walk to get to the park?

In the much nicer neighbourhood that I went through today I saw many people walking their own dogs. All beautifully groomed (same with the dog walker dogs too) and walking so very nicely on leads. Totally city dogs.

Of interest, my tour guide for the second walking tour yesterday, Vicky, said that people from Buenos Aires don't show off if they have money. You see no Ferraris nor fancy-pants cars driving around. She said that they prefer not to publically flash their money. Instead they'll do nice things to their homes. I wonder whether the type of dog you have is a bit of a 'bling' thing? Some snooty pooches around.

I headed down to the Recoleta Cemetery. I've been there previously - nice to take a look around again. Packed with mausoleums, built by the original wealthy families of the city, there are something like 5,000 dead peeps in here. It's like a mini city of remains in ornate house-like tombs.


No flowers nor angels above the door to this mausoleum...
Near the cemetery is his amazing tree. Vicky said that this is the oldest tree in the city. It's a rubber tree and around 200 years old. They had to put supports under the branches.


And then off again to the Japanese Gardens. I expected them to be bigger... but they were pretty nonetheless. I don't think this time of year does the Garden much justice. I'm sure it is magnificent in Spring / Summer with leaves on the trees and an abundance of flowers and flowering trees. Still, it is pretty and quiet and nice to sit for a while.



I'm back at the hostel - chilling for a bit. Tomorrow I fly to Bariloche. Forecast is 10C and rain, with a low of -2C... I did pack my rain jacket and pants. There's a bus stop two blocks from here and the bus goes straight to the airport. Convenient! On the other side there's a bus from the airport too - and a walk of a few blocks to the hostel.

Ah... I wanted to tell you that this city is not dirty as I was told. For having 13 million people living here on top of each other it is pretty clean. Cleaner than Jo'burg city by a huge margin! Sure, there's a bit more litter in the Centro than, say, Recoleta and other nice-nice suburbs, but it really isn't bad.

Some stuff that Vicky told us last night...

If you get five locals together you can be sure that one will be a psychologist. They have two options, like us, for medical treatment: government or private. She says the doctors in the government system are really good but that the buildings and facilities are neglected and falling apart. So, most middle class and higher income pay for private medical. Two benefits they receive from this are: cosmetic plastic surgery procedure every two years and psychologist visits.

On the plastic surgery side she says BA is crazy for plastic surgery. At least 100 boob jobs a day! She says locals like to look good and so plastic surgery is very popular. Medical aid pays for this cosmetic surgery.

She says that locals also go to their psychologist once a week. For an hour. Just to chat. If you don't go to a psychologist, you're the odd one out.

Ah... Gaston, my morning guide, was answering someone's question about the tango, which is the national dance and an 'identity' of BA. He says only really older folk tango. Younger people don't. Not at all. Like between the ages of 25 (and younger) to 35 people don't dance tango. They don't go out to clubs to dance unless they're dance students; much like any people who go to dance classes. He doesn't tango and says that not one of his friends dances tango either. It's more popular with tourists than locals.

Off to the mountains tomorrow. Yay! And am soooo totally looking forward to starting Spanish lessons on Monday.

First day in Buenos Aires

I'm in Buenos Aires! I've been here for a day (and two nights) already and I'm thoroughly enjoying the city. Not that I'd want to stay here for an extended period - too busy and noisy for me.

When I arrived on Wednesday night I went for a walk-about. I'd been told by an Argentinian man (living in SA) at the airport before boarding that Buenos Aires was quite dangerous now - and very different from when I was last here 10 years ago. I sat next to a lovely young man from Uraguay on the plane and he too said that Buenos Aires was now dirty and dangerous. Driving in the shuttle to the hostel I kept my eyes open, checking out the place. I'm in a pretty good location - central city area not far from the obelisk, old Teatro Colon, the port...

The road that the hostel is on, Florida, is a busy walking road as is the big Avenue to the side. Loads of locals and tourists around. It's pretty stupid in any city to walk quiet roads on your own but I find it quite fine to keep to the busy roads. People out for dinner, having coffee, sight seeing, many theatres... Wonderful vibe and excellent walking. I got in a few kilometres and returned to the hostel.

Florida during the evening. It's a walking street (no cars).
Yesterday (Thursday) my first stop was the meeting point for the 11am Buenos Aires Free Tour - a walking tour. Really, really good! It took around 2.5hrs and our guide, Gaston, really gave us a lot of information about Buenos Aires' history and recent issues. Also a bit of local culture. Very informative and a nice group of people. Some of them were with me too on the 5pm walking tour, which started from a different location. Really superb and well worth doing if you're visiting the city.


After the morning tour I needed to get cash to get food. There are two economies running here. The man at the airport was going on about the exchange rate being 10 pesos to 1 US Dollar. I remember saying to him, "No, it is around 5". As it turns out, you get 5 from the bank by about 8 on the 'blue market'. I spoke to some girls in my dorm about this (they've been here for two weeks) and, like me, they don't trust the men calling "Cambiar" (to exhange) on the streets.

A dog walker. I haven't seen as many as previously but they're certainly around. I think it is crazy how there are so many dogs in this city when all the people live in apartments and open spaces are not abundant. I even saw a guy with a husky yesterday. My heart broke for this dog - I know how much Angel and Toscana just love running and being out. These two locked up in an apartment would go crazy!
Just before I left my mom started reading Tony Leon's book, "Accidental Ambassador" about his time in Argentina as an Ambassador for SA and he speaks about all the counterfeit money and this side trade. The problem is that the government has closed down on locals getting forex so there's a thriving trade on the streets. I'm really not into this - I went to the bank. Just too risky. At some places, like my Spanish .school, you get better rates if you pay in Dollars. I'll take advantage of this rather than trading with dodgey men on the streets.

Vegetables are not dime a dozen in this place. The girls from my dorm recommended an Asian supermarket nearby, which has apples and bananas and such. Later in the evening, walking to the evening tour, I found a fresh vegetable store and scored some baby spinach and broccoli. I've only been here a day and I'm already craving raw and crunchy. The streets are crawling with pizza joints and McDonalds and Burger King... Lots of bad food available in this place.

It has been very warm - mid-20s - and humid. Today is cooler, which is very pleasant for walking around.

I had a really good Spanish experience (two actually) yesterday. In the morning I completed the placement test for the Spanish school so that they know how much I know for the start of classes on Monday. I understood the questions and was able to answer then - in Spanish! This is the first time that I've tried to write in Spanish and I definitely find it easier than speaking - I can think slower and more carefully.

 Then, before going to the evening walking tour I walked down to the harbour area to check it out. A bridge was swinging over to let a sail boat through. I was leaning against a railing next to an old man. He didn't speak any English. So I got to work some of my Spanish on him. It was so much fun! I discovered that his daughter, who is thirty-two, lives in Sevilla (Spain) and that he has a two-year old grand daughter. He would like to learn English as everywhere he clicks on the internet it is just English, English, English. I told him that I was going to Bariloche to learn Spanish and that I only know a little Spanish now, but that when I return to Buenos Aires in four weeks I hope to be speaking much more. We spoke about a few other little things (plus some sign language) and I thanked from for our conversation.


This is so the way to go. In Bariloche I'm definitely going to sidle up to more older, non-English speaking, people to talk to them. Much more of a fun experience than trying to speak Spanish to locals who can speak English.

I'd forgotten about this - Dulce de Leche. It's a spread, used like a jam / honey. Tastes like that caramel topping for cakes. I brought a jar of peanut butter, which I'm eating on the rolls provided for breakfast. I like to eat the dulce de leche straight out the tub ;)
Today I'm heading off to see the Japanese Gardens and other sights in the area. The city blocks are around 100-metres long and the gardens are in a suburb about three-kilometres away. There are other things I want to see on the way so I'll meander down there. I also want to go to the Ecological Park, where I ran when I was here before. I remember it being a very peaceful spot with trees and grass and with Rio del la Plata on the far side.

Monday, 10 June 2013

28 days of '37 Days of Running'

Four weeks DONE! Unbelievable how fast this challenge passes.

This past week has been relatively good and I recall only one day where I sighed before heading out. As always, I feel totally better and more energised after my run.

A highlight of this week was my Friday lunchtime run with the huskies. We had a longer outing the usual and it was very warm out. When we got back to their home Angel and Toscana jumped straight into their water-filled shells to splash down. I do carry water for them when we're out - they've learned to drink from a water bottle. I'm running with them again at lunchtime today - I am doing to miss these two when I'm away.


On Wednesday I fly to Buenos Aires so it will mess up my running schedule a bit. I have to be at the airport around 06h30 and I get to my hostel in Buenos Aires after 19h00. I've made a map of my suburb so I'll probably go for a night walk around the area instead of a run. Then on Thursday I'll head down to the nearby Ecological Park for a run and I'll also check out the 'hood during daylight too.

Howz this... check out the weather forecast for Saturday, when I arrive in Bariloche. 2C and SNOW! Warm tights. Check. Beanie. Check. Buffs (plural). Check. Gloves. Check. Thermal top. Check. Run jacket. Check. What a running experience this is going to be.


Sunday, 9 June 2013

Hey, where'd that control go?

Oh, how many ways there are to screw up on an orienteering course. Last year at the Big 5 O event I mispunched a control - my first such error ('my' control was maybe 20m nearby - I didn't check the control code!). This morning, I totally left out a control going smoothly from 10 to 11 to 13. Just after crossing the finish I looked at my map to see that lo-and-behold I'd skipped 12. And I was having such fun in the bluegum tree plantation!

So, let's see what I got up to out there this morning.

Control 2




I overshot. I thought I was on track and headed for a break in the vegetation. Realised I was too far up, bashed through the swampy grass-river, got the control, bashed through the swamp again to head for #3.
(I didn't position my track very well... I didn't go through the green to get to #3, I went around it.)

Control 5



Control 5 was where I really messed up. I took a really good route from #3 to #4 - up and up and up. Then, from 4, I saw a gap in the quarry, which I took. I really wasn't reading those embankments properly. I realised I was in the 'green' area and got out of there. I ended up in a 'walled' area, but didn't see the control. I was a bit confused. The solid black line wall and the near-vertical embankments are actually quite different.

I noticed the wall and started moving along it. I spotted the control at the same time as I saw Sarah. She'd started a bit after me. That control cost me time! I really don't know why I didn't just go as-the-crow-flies...

But I caught up to Sarah again heading for #8 (I had good routes to 6, 7 and 8).

The missing Control 12 (missing in my mind!)



And then I had decent routes to 9, 10 and 11. I had my heart set on 13, after 11. I didn't even notice 12! How stoooopiiiidddd. This is the FIRST TIME that I've totally left out a control! You can see from my track that there is no hesitation. I punched 11 and moved straight on to 13! I was having such fun running in this bluegum forest.

I only realised just after crossing the finish that there was a #12 on my map. Arrrggghhh...

First time for everything...!!!

The rest of my controls where super-dooper. No problems. And I was running totally oblivious of my error.

I may have come in second - depending on my time difference to Zig.

Would've. Could've. Should've. Didn't. Got a DSQ instead!

Oh well. I nonetheless has a really nice time out there. It felt good to be orienteering again - I don't think I've done any events this year (and not much in the second half of last year either)! I have been at many events (schools league) and also coaching, but not much as a participant. And it shows, evidently!

Still, a good outing. Thanks to RACO for a superb event.